So you've finally gotten that Iguana that you have always wanted. Well then, here's a care sheet that is simple with a complete and nutritious diet included to help you keep your new pet healthy. If you are looking for just the answers about how to keep your pet healthy and happy without going broke, while still being able to enjoy having it then read on.

THE GREEN IGUANA (Iguana iguana) requires more work than what most Pet Shop employees will lead you to believe but not that much more.Some key things to remember about Iguanas is that first and foremost CLEANLINESS is very important to how you and he/she gets along. It is not a myth that GREEN IGUANAS "can" carry SALMONELLA bacteria. However, whether or not you and your family are effected depends on how well you maintain it's cage and your hygiene. Cage disinfecting can be easily accomplished by using a mixture of 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water. Spray the entire area of your Iguana's enclosure with this mixture and let sit for about 20 minutes. This is very important as it takes this period of time for the solution to kill germs and bacteria and sterilize the area. Then wipe with clean paper towels. Rinse again with plain water. All water bowls, branches and anything else your iguana comes in contact with should be cleaned in the same manner. This should be done during each cage cleaning. In general this will be NO LESS than 2 -3 times per week. After cage cleaning, feeding and/or handling WASH YOUR HANDS, this will keep you from being infected or infecting others. Although the threat of being infected with Salmonella from your iguana is slim it can and has happened. The best way to prevent this is through CLEANLINESS.

Those people most prone to being infected with Salmonellosis are young children under the age of 5, the elderly and those with compromised immune systems, such as those with AIDES.

Your Iguana's cage can be made from a typical aquarium, custom built or bought. Of coarse the more elaborate the enclosure the more costly. These enclosures should be well ventilated as well as secure. While some owners will choose to let their Igs roam free within a room, this is not recommended because curtain rods do not make good perches. Furthermore, it becomes much more difficult to provide proper UV lighting, heating as well as preventing the spread of any possible Salmonella bacteria. Most iguanas will require approximately 6 cu/ft of living space each. Many Igs will live in harmony but it is recommended that each be housed separately or that all Igs within a single enclosure be of the same sex and approximately the same size as their cage mates.
NOTE: More than one male in a single enclosure will present a danger during maturity. Male Iguanas will fight for territory once mature, regardless of how long they have lived together and how well they have gotten along during that time.
ALSO NOTE: While it is often less prominent between females, sometimes they too can become aggressive to both male and female cage mates.
FEMALE OWNERS: Owners should understand that male iguanas can sense when women owners are within their menstrual cycle and can become nasty during this time.

Iguanas, like all other REPTILES, are cold blooded therefore need to be warm. Iguanas LOVE to bask in the heat of a nice hot spot, easily provided by a 75 watt spot light. They also, like most other animals, need to cool off from time to time.
NOTE: The use of light bulbs with wattages higher than 100 pose a threat of severe burns.

BOTTOM LINE: 70-95 degrees is great. Give your iguana a hot spot at ONE SIDE of its enclosure. Give it a branch equal to or larger than 1 1/2 times the Igs belly girth and place it in such a manner that the Iguana can get close to but not touching the basking lamp. This should be adequate enough heating for the whole enclosure up to a 55 gallon tank or so. But be on the safe side and pick up at least 2 high temperature reptile thermometers from your local pet shop and place one on each side of the enclosure. Try to keep the cooler side in the mid seventies. Night time heating can be accomplished with a slightly lower wattage, red, blue or ceramic bulb.

NOTE: If your normal room temperature usually stays above 70 degrees at night then removal of heat during the night hours is fine allowing the cage temps to cool to the low 70's. Occasional drops in to the low 60's can be tolerated for short periods of time as long as the Iguana is given adequate heating during the day to recover heat loss. While other heat sources are on the market for heating Iguana cages most are either very expensive or dangerous to your Igs health.

HEAT ROCKS KILL: While most pet shops will push Heat Rocks on their customers as a source of belly heat they often malfunction and cause severe burns while giving "YOU" the owner a false sense of security that your doing the right thing. While it is true that Iguanas do benefit from belly heat for their food digestion it is often very well taken care of with the heat absorbed by your Igs branch that is positioned directly under the heat lamp. If you still feel the need for some sort of rock for your pet to use get a piece of slate or lava rock and position it directly under the heat lamp. While your Ig is away from the rock it will absorb heat and begin to cool immediately when the Ig lies on it thus protecting the Ig from burning itself. I do find though that this task can be easily omitted if you supply your iguana with a kitty litter box or small plastic shoe box full of water under the heating lamp. This serves two very important needs.
1) Water and heat together will create humidity within an enclosure. This can be adjusted by placing a heating pad directly under the enclosure just below where the water container will sit. THE HIGHER THE HEAT THE HIGHER THE HUMIDITY.
2) Iguanas love to POOP in water thus keeping your cage cleaner and neater. Besides the swim won't hurt either. While this is a good thing remember to change this water frequently because your Iguana will drink from this water. Don't forget to use proper cleaning methods as this will be a hot spot for Salmonella bacteria. On the subject of swimming, DON'T be afraid to allow your iguana to swim within your bathtub while your cleaning his/her enclosure or at any other time. Iguanas are champion swimmers and will love to show you how easily they can do it, but don't place them in the swimming pool as the chlorine will kill your pet.

As far as substrates (bedding) USE newspaper or paper towels.
I will not hesitate to say that many vets will concur that most wood chips, gravel, corncob or most any other store bought bedding will often spell disaster for your pet iguana as Iguanas are notorious for tasting everything as well as gulping large amounts of food and substrates while eating often causing severe digestional problems.

Probably the hardest part about keeping an Iguana is mastering a healthy diet that will provide the proper amounts of Calcium and Phosphorus as well as being somewhat nutritious. The Diet that I have developed is fastly becoming one of the best known and most widely used diets in the world today. The IGUANA DEN DIET will provide your Iguana will all of it's nutritional needs. You will notice I have included the Calcium to Phosphorus ratios for every food item as well as the Protein content of each item. Follow this diet as closely as possible and your iguana will eat like a champ.

PLEASE NOTE: Iguanas are not easy to care for pets, are expensive to maintain and pose certain health and safety risks to children! Please do your research and make sure you have the commitment for its care before you acquire a pet iguana.

The Common Green Iguana is unarguably the most popular reptile kept in captivity in the United States, and it is quickly recognized even by "non-herpers." As their common name implies, the typical Green Iguana is colored varying shades of green--from brilliant emerald to a more ashy gray-green. However, coloration can vary depending on where an individual originated from geographically, and color morphs do appear sporadically (such as "blue" iguanas). The tail is ringed by black bands, and a row of tooth-like scales runs from the nape of the lizard's neck and down its back.

Native range: Central and South America

Habitat: tropical jungles

Adult length : 40-60"

Cage & Accessories: Hatchlings and juveniles can start out in a 20-gallon "long" aquarium, but quickly outgrow these quarters. A full-grown adult needs a lot of room, and the minimum dimensions should be 6' x 6' x 4'. Iguanas are active lizards, and need a variety of climbing areas (thick, sturdy branches propped up work well) and basking rocks and ledges. A pool large enough for the lizard to soak (such as a dish pan) will be used frequently. Live plants add a nice touch, but be prepared for the iguanas to snack on the leaves, so first make sure they are non-toxic (pothos and spider plants are two choices). For substrate, newspaper is easy to clean and inexpensive. If you desire a more attractive alternative, try cage carpeting (like astroturf) or pea-sized gravel; both are more labor-intensive to keep clean, but for a showcase cage, they are worth the work.

Temperature: 68-72F nighttime low, 82-95F daytime high. To achieve this range, use an under-tank heater to heat the entire cage to the low 80s. Add an incandescent spot light over a rock or branch so the iguana can bask. Experiment with light bulbs of different wattages until the basking area reaches the mid-90s. The cage should have a temperature gradient, so the lizard can choose the temperature that is most comfortable at that time. For example, iguanas will bask under the light after eating a meal (this helps with digestion), and then move to a cooler spot later. Please note, that temperatures below 68 degrees can be harmful to your iguana.

Lighting: Green Iguanas also need UBV light to thrive in captivity. Without it, they can get metabolic bone disease (MBD), because they cannot effectively process calcium (and specifically D3) without sunlight. These special lights mimic sunlight, and are sold by a variety of manufacturers under different names (such as Duro-Lite and Vita-Lite). If you are fortunate to live in warmer climates, it's a good idea to give your Iguana real "sun baths" outdoors when the weather is nice. Artificial lights will do in a pinch, but nothing beats exposure to pure sunlight. Light coming in through a window will not work, because glass filters out beneficial rays in the wavelengths lizards need. So, if possible allow your Iguana to bask outside in a wire enclosure, or in a secure pen where he can enjoy the warm sun.


Your iguana may also enjoy winter squash, asparagus, bell peppers, even bread, rice and pasta. As with almost all pets, Iguanas have the right to a better life recommends that you provide your pet iguana a varied and interesting diet.

SPECIAL NOTE: There is some discussion whether animal protein should be added to the pet iguana's diet. Though wild iguanas are known to occasionally snack on a variety of insects, at this time Iguanas have the right to a better life recommends that animal protein NOT be added to your pet iguana's diet.

The Green Iguana makes a great pet ... if you're prepare to take care of it's specific heating, lighting, and food requirements ... and if you're prepared to house a six-foot lizard once it's full-grown. This colorful, gentle species will no doubt continue to be the number-one pet lizard for a long time.